Summer is coming, and the Blumarine girl is ready. Emerging from the armored chrysalis of the fall show, out pops a butterfly in shining colors. Turquoise. Hot pink. Golden yellow. Moody as ever, Nicola Brognano’s self-confident Blumarine creature makes u-turns as she pleases.

“The look isn’t as dirty as in the last few seasons,”the designer elucidated. Brognano said he wanted something more elevated and sensual, “a different energy, more joie de vivre, a more summer feel.”From the label’s archive he excavated a calmer color palette—nudes, pale pink, light blue, white—that he amplified into brighter vibrations. “There are no concepts, just sensations,” he said matter-of-factly.

The look was ultrashort, body skimming and slinky, with viscose jersey providing a smooth, liquid surface malleable enough for wrapping, draping, and sash-knotting. Matching the barely-there minidresses’ colors, stretchy leggings that covered the needle heels of strappy sandals elongated the figure into a lean monochrome silhouette. Brognano unearthed a Blumarine lingerie look from years past, steering its once flirty, seductive attitude towards the overtly provocative. A tight-fitting bustier and leggings combo in stretch jersey with lace inserts was the season’s “new suit proposition.” The same idea was extended to a black tailored blazer and miniskirt with buckled garters dangling at the hem. Not exactly Savile Row material.

Roses, another of Blumarine’s emblems, were also given the Brognano treatment. More thorny bush than manicured garden, they were laser-cut and appliquéd on a white minidress, or printed on a hot-pink mesh tube dress.

The brand’s ubiquitous cargos came in a simplified evening version. In black canvas with a satin intarsia, they signaled a slight shift in the approach to Y2K that put Brognano’s Blumarine on the map in the first place. Asked how he feels about the in-your-face bare-midriff look that has ignited copycats by every high street brand, he was rather adamant. “Y2K? Honestly, I think it’s a bit passé.”

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